Flowtoys

You sure can! 

General Info:

• G1 and G2 flowlight have a constant current driver and changing out the LED colors doesn't require any resistor changes. G2.5 onwards do not have a constant current driver and will require resistor changes. 
  
• We use 5mm, 30 degree LEDs. Though any beam angle will work, it will affect the distribution of light. 
  
•  Self-color changing,  “tracer” or IC LEDs that have an internal "Integrated Circuit" to produce effects within the LED itself will only work properly in BOLD mode. Every other mode pulses the LEDs and they will constantly reset to their first color and never change. An exception is our “spectrum” flowlights, which have special circuitry that pulses their LEDs without resetting the LED’s IC. This may not work with all other IC LEDs on the market, experiment at your own risk. 
  
•  Phosphor-tracer leds, like pink with red phosphor, can be cool, as they leave their “tracer” between every blip of the LED in every mode. This is an analogue effect caused by the latency of the phosphor, which causes it continue glowing after power has been removed from the led. The pink, for example, is actually a blue led with a red phosphor coating.
  

• Put the flowlight on a hard durable surface with the seam facing up and hammer it along the seam on both sides. You could use an empty beer bottle (carefully!), a metal pipe or similar round hard and heavy object. A hammer works but might mar the shell. 
  
• Start with soft strikes, and increase force if needed. You should be able to split the seam without deforming the shell. 
  
• Reseal the shell with thickened crazy glue, thickened cyanoacrylate or polycarbonate glues, but it has to be done really cleanly. You might also use small strips of clear tape to make rings around the shell to hold it together. The shell will never be as well-sealed as the original, because the original is ultrasonically welded.